Running tight on time to finish your project and find yourself in a bind? We’ve all been there. That’s why I wanted to show you a “No Pins, No Hand Sewing” binding tutorial that creates an adorable finish to your project. Join me as Emily walks us through her tutorial. For more of her projects visit http://mommysnaptime.blogspot.com/.
No pins no hand sewing binding: A tutorial.
After a little encouragement from a friend, I’ve decided to write up a quick tutorial for the binding I used here. No pins used (ever), and no hand sewing.
As background, I do follow Amanda Jean’s binding tutorial to prep my binding. I use 2.25″ strips, although I think this may be easier with 2.5″ strips (especially if your piece is as bulky as mine was).
Before starting be sure that your quilt sandwich is very neatly squared up. Those corners won’t end up perfectly square if you don’t. I’ve found that it also helps to keep things square if you’ve quilted the quilt a bit more densely (less for it to wiggle around).
1) Read Amanda Jean’s tutorial. Cut strips (I use width of fabric, not bias) 2.25″, join them as determined in the tutorial above.
2) Iron strip in half, using a spray bottle to steam for a very crisp edge. (I just use plain water, and use a spray bottle instead of the steam option since my iron tends to burn me with steam).
3) Starting an inch or two from a corner of your quilt, sew the raw edges of the binding to your quilt sandwich using a 1/4″ seam allowance (binding layered on top of the top of the quilt – not the back). Fold and turn corners as Amanda Jean shows.
4) Use your iron tip to press the binding off and away from the quilt top. Don’t worry about folding it around just yet. Be sure to put tension on that binding so that it’s ironed neatly at the stitches. You can use the tip of the iron pushed into the corners too. If you’ve folded and sewn the binding properly in those corners they’ll lay just right.
5) Now hold the corner of your quilt between your pointer finger and thumb and flip the binding over to the other side.
6) Starting in the middle of any side, iron from left to right, pulling the binding around as snugly as possible (without distorting the layers of your quilt sandwich). Iron straight to the corner, which will end in a little triangle. Use your spray bottle a lot, steam the heck out of every inch of the binding. This will make it easier to sew without it shifting.
7) Carefully fold the next side on top – still working left to right. As long as you’ve got all the layers of your binding creased right where the edge of your quilt is the fold should be just in the right place. If not, fiddle with it a little… It helps to use a pointy tool (chopstick?) or your thumb nail to keep the folded part as it should be. Again, iron the heck out of it. Use lots of water. Make sure this is really crisp. Continue with the rest of the quilt.
8) Notice that when you’re all done those folds stay put without any help.
|Step 9 stitch in the ditch.|
9) Now hold one of those perfect corners, and slide in your machine so that the quilt top is on top. Starting at the very corner stitch in the ditch using your right hand several inches in front of the needle to monitor that fold as you sew. I don’t find that this requires much monitoring. ****If you’re having trouble stitching in the ditch, error on the side of your needle being farther from the binding – it’ll look less messy than if you hit that binding.
10) As you approach the corner (2-3″ from it) use your right hand to hold the corner folds exactly in place. Hold the folds until you get within an inch or so to the needle. Slowly approach the corner and remember if you have any problems with the folded edge you can put the needle down, and lift up the presser foot to straighten it a bit (use chopstick – with foot off the pedal!). I find that it doesn’t really require much fiddling. Use hand turn/wheel thingy to put the needle in the down position right at the corner, lift presser foot, and pivot the quilt.
11) Continue around the quilt. Trim your threads, and enjoy the perfection!
|sewn binding, top view.|
|sewn binding, bottom view.|
Enjoy!! I’d love to see your finished projects if you use this tutorial! Please don’t hesitate to leave me a link or an email about it! 🙂 Let me know if you’ve got any problems… I’m sure there are parts here that are worded funny.
With weather like this it is impossible to not be inspired by all the colors of the blooms. I wanted to really show this in one of my projects, so I looked up this free tutorial by Ivory Spring. She walks us through quilting a wonderful leaf/petal pattern. After reading this you can go straight to you quilting room and try it out! See more from Ivory Spring at https://ivoryspring.wordpress.com/
I caved… I gave in and succumbed to your request to see the schematic of that leaf/petal quilting motif combo! THANKS EVERYONE, for all your kind words on that motif. I won’t be able to respond to you personally due to the time crunch I am in right at this moment. I hope you understand – please know that I truly truly appreciate hearing from you.
It all started with the leaves on one of the fabrics I used for my “Charmed” quilt. See how cute those leaves are? [ This is another example of using fabrics at as starting point for quilting motifs. Click here to read more.]
I adapted the center using a swirl because I thought I would just start out with something familiar to me — I only have about 6 hours to quilt the entire quilt. So here is my stitching sequence. I started out with a swirl, up and down to the starting point.
And then, I stitched out a leaf outline around the swirl.
Then I scalloped around the leaf outline.
Here you see the same motif with the leaf outline started from the other side of the swirl bottom.
Then, it’s a matter of filling in with random swirls and vines and what-nots until you feel like swirling with another leaf/petal motif again! The wonderful, wonderful thing about this motif is that it doesn’t require exact precision on the stitching path. The general look is a lighthearted one so that you can have one scallop a little wonky, and one scallop a little crooked, and the motif will still come out as charming as can be! VERY very forgiving!
So I had a few minutes before church to actually sit down and doodle a bit, and I was able to come up with a quilting motif that looks more like the original leaf on the fabric. This time you would start with the leaf vein before the swirl in the center, and and then just follow the same sequence to complete the motif.
I hope this post gives you more ideas on what to quilt on your precious quilt tops. Meanwhile, I will work on more adaptations of this leaf/petal motif. I will let you know if I come up with more ideas.
So I caved, I gave in, I succumbed…. I hope I have delivered as well.
Though the snow may be lingering, Spring is just around the corner! This give you the chance to experiment with the latest colors and trends, and start all sorts of new projects! When digging, I found an awesome tutorial that I can’t wait to get started on! It’s called Delightful Dresdens! (A Wee Tutorial), by Karen. I can’t wait to make some daisies with these and use them as Spring place settings. You can find more from Karen at her blog: http://listentothebirdssing.blogspot.com/. And keep tuning in to hear more from us!
Delightful Dresdens! (A Wee Tutorial)
Thanks so much to all of you who commented or emailed me suggestions for my dresden dilemma. I thought about it, researched it & have managed to come up with an easy & cheap way to fix the dreaded curved dresden problem.
They now look like this:
The dresden flower is completed, appliqued onto some linen & I’m in the process of hand quilting them now. I thought that some of you maybe would like to know how to do these, so here is a wee mini tutorial which I hope you will be of some use to you…. so here goes…
DELIGHTFUL DRESDEN TUTORIAL:
Step One: What you will need
As well as fabric & scissors – an iron, spray starch & two card templates: one for your fabric dresden petals (we will call this the petal template) and one approximately 1/8″ smaller than your dresden template (we will call this the finishing template)
Step Two: Lets Cut
Cut your dresden petals using your petal template. Also, using the same petal template cut little top pieces (we will call them petal toppers) from any old material you have to hand (I used old curtain lining fabric)
For the petal toppers you will see that I just cut the curved part of the petal in my lining material so that when the curve stops, you just cut straight across to make a wee semi-circle (this is where this tutorial may differ from the method using interfacing).
Using your lovely spray starch, starch each piece so that they keep their shape…. it really will help you later on!
Step Three: Putting the Topper Onto the Petal
Place the wee petal topper on top of the right side of the fabric &, using a scant 1/4″ seam (slightly less than 1/4″), slowly sew round the top of the curve. Start just before the petal topper & finish just after it. (If you do it this way you won’t need to worry about your thread ends as they will be sewn in a seam a wee bit later on)
Step Four: Admire Your Work!
OK you’ve just sewn as neatly as you can round a curve, so take it out of the machine & have a wee look at it to make sure you are happy with the curve. You can see here how I started sewing before
the petal topper and finished after.
Step Five: Trim Back
Using a sharp pair of scissors, trim back both the dresden petal and the petal topper to help you get a smoother curve.
Step Six: Turn Through
Do you remember the finishing template I mentioned at the beginning? This is where it comes in very handy!
Turn your fabric right side out and use the finishing template to help you achieve a nice clean curve at the top. The point at the bottom of the template helps you centre the curve. If you are using cardboard you can iron this with the template in place, if you are using template plastic, take the template out & iron the curve carefully.
Step Seven: Putting The Petals Together
OK you have the hard part done, its downhill all the way from here! Align carefully two petals right sides together and using a 1/4″ seam sew straight down from the point where the curve of the top meets the straight of the sides. (This way you will sew over the tails of your curve sewing, so less finishing off work for you at the end).
This is how it should look at the back:
If you are making the whole circle flower thing, there should be 16 petals in your circle & it is good to sew them in sets of four, so that you keep things nice & neat … but if you look closely at mine I have 17!!
So that’s a wee tutorial for you… my very first one! I hope you will be able to follow it & it might be of some use you. If I can help clarify any of the steps do please get in touch & I’ll do my best to help you out
I hope you all have a lovely “end
A few weeks ago we had a friend come into our shop to use our quilting machine. It was her first time using a quilt machine and she wanted to do everything using our free motion setting. She had a wonderful peacock inspired lap quilt and was wanting to quilt feathers on it. After a few tries on some practice fabric, she decided a more straight-lined pattern would be far easier. That sent me searching for a tutorial that could help her and others learn how to quilt feathers, without things getting overly complicated. This simple tutorial was written by Valerie Smith who is a published quilting artist based out of Ohio, if you would like to see more of her tutorials please visit www.pumkinpatchquilter.com.
When delving into the world of custom quilting there is one design element that virtually all quilters want to learn to create – feathers! Feathers can take a simple quilt and send it soaring over the top with texture and visual interest. The best part is, with a little practice anyone can create beautiful flowing feathers.
I think it is fair to say that feathers are my favorite thing to quilt. But before I ever touched the longarm machine I spent some time with pencil and paper. I practiced several different techniques for drawing feathers, the key being that as I drew them I did not lift my pencil from the paper. You can practice feathers using pencil and paper, a dry erase board and erasable marker, or even on a graphic design tablet like I use to create my quilting design plans. Once you feel comfortable drawing feathers by hand you are ready to move on to creating them on the longarm.
I have found that there are two common methods of creating feathers. Neither is right or wrong, but often one method seems to feel more comfortable to some peoplethan the other. I would recommend at least trying both methods a few times and then choosing the one that feels right to you.
The first method is one in which each feather plume is created individually. For this feather you are going to draw your spine with a water soluble or disappearing ink pen. Begin at the base of the feather spine, creating individual feather plumes trailing up the right side of the spine. The bulk of your back tracking will be over the length of the plume as you come back up the plume you just created to make the next.
When you reach the top of the marked spine, follow the line you drew inwith stitching all the way back down to the base to create your stitched feather spine. By drawing in our line with a removable ink before stitching, we avoid backtracking over the spine and create minimal thread buildup. Just as you did the right side, trail again up the left side of the spine creating plumes in the same manner. When you reach the top be sure to put one joining plume in the center to close the feather.
It’s also possible to start at the top of your feather with this method and then add plumes all the way down to the base of the feather. Experiment to see if climbing up the feather vein or sliding down the feather gives you better results.
Voila! You have created a beautiful traditional feather!
The next method for feathers is the one I personally prefer. It isoften referred to as the “bump-bump” method.
For this version you will again draw your spine first using water soluble or disappearing ink to plan ahead the placement of the spine. Start at the base and create a plume. When you reach the base of that plume, instead of backtracking over the length of the plume, push your stitching outward away from the first plume and go on to create another. Next you will backtrack over the hump or “bump” of that plume and then “bump” a second time to create the next plume.
By “bumping” over every other plume we are again eliminating backtracking that can cause thread build up. Here I have demonstrated using a contrasting thread, but by using a blending thread you will create texture and hide backtracking.
Once you reach the top of the spine you will again create your stitched spine by trailing back down the line you marked ahead of time in water soluble or disappearing ink. Reach the bottom of the spine and trail back up the left side of the spine in the same manner as you did the right, creating plumes and again being sure to place one or two small feathers at the top to close the feather.
Spend some time mastering one or both of these methods for creating feathers and you will be on your way to creating multitudes of heirloom quilting designs in no time!